A Collection of Memories I Don’t Want to Forget, Vol. 3

With the school year coming to a close in Japan, I figured I’d amassed enough stories to get another compilation out before new students and teachers come in.  Here’s my third batch of my own personal comedians doing their best to make me laugh!  For my ninth graders and some of my teachers, these will be their last stories; for my other kids, these will be their last stories until they advance to the next school year.

 


 

A few more students and teachers:

Jimin: a sixth-grade boy at my bigger elementary school who likes dancing and the dancer/singer Jimin from BTS, hence the nickname.

My JTE: I supposed I never properly introduced her, but my JTE is the main teacher I work with at my junior high school. I’m in a situation where I only have one JTE (some people may have three, or ten, or twelve), as my main school is so small, which makes me all the more relieved that she’s incredibly easy to work with as well as being knowledgeable about…literally everything. She speaks fluent English and is very laid-back, in a good way.

Pikachu-sensei: a special education/temporary support teacher who sits next to me in the staff room, and who loves anything and everything Pikachu. She’s bright and personable, helping me out from day one to feel comfortable in the staff room and to know what the heck is going on during morning meetings, and she greets me in English whenever she sees me. She’s remarkably good with arts-and-crafts, and loves to laugh.

Koya: a second-year middle school boy with an amazing power. He sleeps through about 80% of English class, almost every day, and yet…I can’t be mad, because when he wakes up he always knows the answer. I swear, it’s like magic. My JTE and I can spend a whole lesson going over how to form comparatives and superlatives (“Cold, colder, the coldest,” “Beautiful, more beautiful, the most beautiful”) while he’s hunched over his desk, pencil making faint, wobbly lines as it purposelessly slides down the page, but when we wake him up to tell us the three forms of “great,” he takes one look at his worksheet, says “Great, greater, the greatest,” with no apparent mental energy, and then falls back asleep almost as soon as he’s done. He’s currently taking standardized English tests above his grade. I named him Koya after the BT21 character, who “Always looks like he’s asleep but is just thinking very deeply.”

Balloon-chan: a first-grade girl at my smaller elementary school. Very small, very cute.

Hikaru: a second-year middle school (eighth grade) boy that loves video games. He loves video games. Ironically, he’s very good at studying and is also quite gifted in sports…the problem is that he doesn’t particularly like studying; he’d rather stay up late playing Fortnite. Still, he’s basically good at everything and he tends to do well in English, and what’s more, I certainly understand his love of video games…so I can’t be too harsh. He and Kaoru, nicknamed after the mischievous twins in Ouran High School Host Club, are very good friends, and love messing around with each other.

Kaoru: a second-year middle school boy that…also loves video games. Like, loves video games. I don’t know if he’s good at sports, but he’s pretty good with his studies, and seems to be a focused, bright student. Always ready with a smile and with an open, waiting bowl on days where I can’t eat all of the rice I was given at lunch. (Honestly though, ALL of my middle school boys can put it away like I’ve never seen.) I’m pretty sure he wants to be an architect when he grows up. He and Hikaru are a dynamic duo, and they’re pretty funny when you put them together.

Snowman: a second-year middle school boy who takes his work very seriously, but is also good-natured and easy to get along with. He was the one who, when I complimented how good he was at kanji, said, “It’s probably because I’m Japanese,” like a sassy little booger.

King Charles: a first-year middle school boy (seventh grade) who I initially took to be quite studious, but in reality is both quite studious and quite the character. His ability to act out ridiculous situations and roles with little to no shame is second to none, and I’m always playing along with him in silly voices and overdramatic gestures when we have speaking tests.

 


 

After having studied a unit on talking about places and things they did and didn’t have in their towns, some of my sixth graders made presentations for me about where they lived and interesting places that they had nearby. One group did a short speech on Uchinomaki, a smaller town within Aso that’s on the west side of the caldera, and mentioned that they had a hospital there. The larger Aso Hospital on the other side of the caldera is much better known, so when the rest of the class was asked for thoughts on the performance, Jimin piped up,

“This is the first time I’ve heard that there was a hospital in Uchinomaki.”

Everyone “aaaaaah”ed in agreement.

“Do you know which hospital it is?” one of the English teachers asked, to which one of the students replied, “It’s Onsen Hospital!” The teacher said that he was right, after which a small voice came from the corner of the room.

It was Jimin again. “Wait a second…I was born there.”

The classmate next to him sighed. “You’re an idiot.”

 


 

Despite the prevailing of some of my coworkers that my Japanese is better than Japanese people’s (I don’t know how they get that notion, as I daily make a number of mistakes around them), I’m definitely not fluent. Not yet. There’s a number of things I’m bound to not know or to mess up frequently, and with Japanese it can be quite easy to get words mixed up. Many words in Japanese are homophones, and unlike English they do not have different “spellings,” which is where kanji really comes in and saves the day to let you know which word is which. But in addition to these homophones there are also a lot of words that just…sound really similar, like 病院 (byouin, meaning “hospital”) and 美容院 (biyouin, meaning “beauty salon”), 最高 (saiko, “the best”) and 最後 (saigo, “last” or “finally”), and 鳥 (tori, “bird”), 通り (toori, “through”), and 鳥居 (torii, “Shinto gate”). This means that there are a lot of times I screw up which word I’m supposed to be saying. During one of my Christmas lessons I said that Santa made rice cakes (omochi) instead of toys (omocha), and the first time someone told me what a croquette (kurokke) was in Japanese…I thought they were talking about karaoke. It’s wonderful, constantly feeling like the Cheep Cheep chef from Paper Mario (see photo below this story).

The most recent (and possibly funniest and most embarrassing) of these incidents happened at the dollar store in my town. I had picked up several things I needed for class the next day only to discover, at the cash register, that I had forgotten my wallet at home. I knew exactly where it was…but exactly where it was was not in the dollar store. Attempting to both apologize to the cashier and also explain what I had done, I said, 「あっ、すみません、政府を忘れてしまいました。」(Ah, sumimasen, seifu wo wasureteshimaimashita.) What I had intended to say was “Oh, sorry, I forgot my wallet.” But unfortunately for me, the word for wallet is saifu, and I hadn’t said saifu…I had said seifu. …which happens to mean “government.”

So I basically told the poor lady working at the cash register that I had forgotten my government. It wasn’t until I was back at my car that I realized my mistake, and also realized that after getting my wallet I would have to go back into the same store, look the same woman at the cash register in the face, and pretend I hadn’t just made a fool of myself.

I managed somehow, and now I use that story to help make sure my kids know that it’s okay to make mistakes speaking English.

 


 

Most of my kids are genuinely sweet little things. Sometimes I worry that they’ll practically forget me at my bigger elementary school, where some classes I only see them once a month, but they are always good about greeting me and, for the most part, remembering what I tell them. I try to let them know when we have similar interests, like if I see that they have a Pokémon pencil case or they’re writing their “My Hero” essay on One Punch Man, because it makes it a lot easier to talk to them down the line. As a result, a LOT of them know I like K-Pop and BT21, because a lot of them also really are into that stuff. One particular instance where they showed just how much they remembered was back in December, maybe midway through the month. I had class with my fifth graders that day, and it was the last time they would see me before Christmas and New Years. At the end of class they had thanked me for my help that semester, and once we had finished, my English specialist teacher and I had started to gather our things to head back to the staff room. Midway my English teacher was interrupted by the homeroom teacher, and they started chatting about lesson plans. Just a few moments later, I noticed that one of the girls was standing next to me, fidgeting and shifting from foot-to-foot. I wondered if it was about my pencil case—I have a very well-known character pencil case, so my kids always want to look at it—so I turned around to ask, and noticed she seemed really nervous. I asked what was up, and in the quietest, fastest, most incomprehensible Japanese I’ve ever heard, mumbled…something. Still have no clue what she said, months later. But after her little speech, she unclasped her hands from behind her back and shoved something at me. It took me a minute to process, but I soon realized she was holding a little hand mirror with an image of Koya, my favorite BT21 character, printed on the back.

I was blown away. Not only had she remembered that I liked BT21, but I hadn’t even actually told her which character I liked from the group. I had only told her the name of the person who made the character, as each character was created by a member of the popular K-Pop group, BTS. She had remembered which member of BTS I liked, gone out and found a pocket mirror with his character on it, and got it for me for Christmas.

I sputtered for a minute, trying to think of how to thank her (I didn’t feel like I’d done anything to get a present, and I was still in awe that she remembered so much about me), before getting out something that resembled coherent Japanese. She rushed back to her seat to prepare for the next class, and hasn’t said anything much to me since.

The mirror has a permanent spot in my purse.

 


 

One of the final reading passages in my ninth-grader’s English textbook is about Michio Hoshino, a Japanese photographer who spent many years in the Alaskan tundra. As I walked around the class helping with pronunciation, I came upon Ravioli who was at the part of the story that described Michio’s wildlife photos. Reading over his shoulder, I watched as he read the first part of the sentence, waiting to see what he would do once he got to “polar bear”—it was a new word, so he’d have to guess or sound it out. Sure enough, when he reached “polar” he stopped and contemplated the text a bit…and then continued,

“…bears…and majestic—”

I snickered. “What kind of bear?”

He looked up at me, cheeky smile on his face as he realized he got caught. After trying his hand at the word a few times, I gave the correct pronunciation and he continued with his reading.

 


 

Within the sixth-grade English curriculum is the well-known Japanese folk tale of Momotaro, the Peach Boy. Momotaro, being a Japanese equivalent of a story like Thumbelina or the Princess and the Frog, is popular throughout the country, and the character of Momotaro is often used as a metaphor for Japan itself, like Uncle Sam but a lot younger and with less finger-pointing. Presenting a play of Momotaro in English, then, is theoretically a fun activity that the students get to do, engaging them with English and familiar Japanese culture at the same time.

For my sixth graders at my smaller school, Momotaro was an exciting deviation from normal textbook activities. We divvied up the roles and rehearsed all the parts, making sure everyone knew all of their cues and actions and entrances and exits. Tofu, our Momotaro, even made a fake knife out of cardboard and aluminum foil and brought it to school for his role, so that he could “stab” the monsters with it. My JTE also brought her phone to record the whole thing. The day of the performance we shoved all the desks to the walls, leaving a big open space in the middle of the room where the kids could perform. The beginning went relatively smoothly with only a few forgotten lines and strange half-English ad-libs, and when we got to the big battle between Momotaro’s group and the monsters it looked as if we’d actually make it through in one shot—which, for this class and its very cute but very crazy kids, is not a given. Momotaro and his crew had just about thoroughly bested the monsters, so one of my girls got a chair from the side of the room and began to bring it over to the center so that Momotaro could sit on it as the monsters said their apologies for being so bad.

Unfortunately, at the exact moment she was carrying it across the little battlefield, the Fallen Monster Baby Naruto sat up off the floor…and smashed his head into the chair leg.

There was a momentary silence, followed by Baby Naruto curling up to his knees, head on the floor and saying, “THAT HURT.” He didn’t start crying, but it was obvious that whatever he had done it wasn’t just a bump on the head; he didn’t bounce back like normal, but stayed on the floor, holding himself, until my JTE and I rushed over to make sure he was okay. When we looked at his head it was red and sore, and had slowly started to bleed.

He was immediately sent to the nurses’ office, and ended up going to the hospital for stitches. Even though it wasn’t as bad as it had appeared, it was a nasty little wound. The classroom after he left was deafeningly quiet as the rest of his classmates, feeling guilty and bummed, killed the rest of their class time with reading.

The next week we tried Momotaro again, and got all the way through it. …But we were a little more strict with just how far the “battle” went.

 


 

While I only go to my smaller elementary school one day a week, I see the kids in the lunchroom when I’m teaching at the middle school, too. Usually they’ll just say hi to me, sometimes wanting high-fives, and often when they’re walking around in classes I end up just standing in one place as all of them pass by, saying “hello” as many times as I can. One day in particular about three elementary grades in a row were walking past me to get lunch, so I was waving at all of them and greeting them as they went. Of course, these are little kids, so I was being a bit silly, saying hi in silly voices to make them all giggle. Immediately after the last class however, my eighth graders passed by on their way to get lunch, and at the head of the group were Hikaru and Kaoru. Had it been one of my shier kids like Baby Naruto I probably would have just said hi like a normal person, but I knew I could get away with messing around with these two.

“Hello,” I said in a cutesy baby voice, waving at them.

I wasn’t disappointed: they responded in kind, seamlessly shifting from normal Japanese middle school boy conversation to high-pitched English, even striking little poses before passing by and resuming their discussion like nothing had happened.

 


 

For many ALTs, one of their monthly to-dos includes decorating an English board, which is supposed to help promote English outside the classroom as well as cultural exchange. Recently, I’ve been including challenges with my board that reward students who are able to read and understand what I’ve written (though with the way I’ve written it, all of them should have a fighting chance at answering the questions). Still, many students take one look at an English board and want to run away, as it can be daunting trying to read something in another language. I’ve been encouraging them to do the English challenges by going with them to the board, usually in a group or a whole class, bribing them with cute stickers as I help them navigate the questions. I’m hoping that over a few months, as they see that they can read and answer the challenges I’ve given them, they’ll gain confidence to start facing the challenges on their own a bit more, but that’s not quite part of the story.

The other day I had gone with the seventh graders to the board after class, making sure they knew which sections the answers were in and what the questions were asking. They eventually got both questions right (though it took some teamwork and a bit of translation), so though not everyone answered individually I told them they could all have a sticker.

“You all worked hard,” I said, “so come pick out whichever one you want.”

The lot of them descended upon the waiting stickers, and among the scattered cries of “cute!!” I heard Kyouya say from the back, “Wait, I didn’t do anything!”

There was a bit of a worried hitch his voice, like he was conflicted about something, but as no one had seemed to hear him he said again, “I didn’t work hard at all, I didn’t answer anything.”

He was so honest it was adorable. But he had shown up with everyone and had listened to everyone talk about the board and about the answers, so I counted that as good enough.

“It’s okay, just make sure you do your best in the future,” I told him, holding out the stickers. Despite the inner conflict, he took one.

 


 

After a full day of classes and nursing a sinus infection, I was looking forward to being able to work at my desk quietly (save some hacking coughs) for the last hour of the school day. I didn’t have much to do as the holidays were approaching and class preparations only extended to the end of the week, but I figured I would be able to study Japanese a bit, or maybe tweak some translations for English Conversation Class since I had the time. Walking back to the staff room with my JTE, however, put a bit of a wrench in those plans—

“For sixth period today,” she told me, “the student council has elections.” She listed off the students who were running, and asked who I thought would win. I couldn’t well decide between them, but the conversation was cut short before I could give a proper answer. Answer or no answer, however, it remained that sixth period would be a school-wide electoral meeting and, sitting down heavily on my chair, I begun to calculate how many Ricolas I would need to smuggle in so that I didn’t cough through everyone’s speeches.

As my JTE was preparing to walk to the cafeteria, however, she gave me a pat on the shoulder.

“Everyone’s going to the meeting, but don’t worry. You can stay here, it will probably be really boring unless you understand all the speeches.”

I had a brief inner conflict at her consolation, as it both blessed me with permission to forego the meeting and simultaneously made me feel like a Bad Teacher for not supporting my students, even if I had no idea what they were saying. But this was short-lived, as I was really, really sick of stifling coughs and sniffling my way through fifty-minute intervals, and I said I would skip out on the meeting.

My JTE nodded. “You’ll be the only one here, so if the phone rings—” I suddenly wished I was going to the meeting, as answering the phone in a different language is possibly one of the scariest things on the planet. “—you can answer it. Say, ‘Hello, this is Miriam of 〇〇 Junior High School,’ and then—GACHAN! Just hang up.” She made a motion of slamming down the phone as she said it, and when I saw her smile I realized she was joking. She didn’t actually expect me to answer the phone when it could be anyone from a parent to the Board of Education. Thank goodness.

Pikachu-sensei laughed at my JTE’s instructions, and joining them I added my own idea. “No, what I’ll do is, I’ll pick up the phone and say, ‘Hello, this is Miriam of 〇〇 Junior High School. Sorry, I don’t speak Japanese.’ And then I’ll hang up!” I pretended to announce myself in high-pitched, polite Japanese, which, of course, proved my own introduction to be false.

My JTE and Pikachu-sensei were both lost in a fit of laughter. Once the joke had blown over a little both of them headed towards the door, but Pikachu-sensei stopped to wink and give me a phone hand gesture, saying, 「電話お願いしま〜す」(roughly, “We’ll leave the phone to you while we’re gone”) before she disappeared into the hallway.

 


 

The Monday after my birthday, my JTE had all of my classes tell me happy birthday before we started the lesson. For most of the kids there wasn’t much of a surprise as they had sang to me at lunch, but my sixth graders hadn’t heard as much from the elementary side of the cafeteria and were a bit more rowdy when they found out. Many of them shouted “Happy birthday!” in an assortment of pronunciations, after which Tofu piped up,

“How old are you?”

There was a clatter as Baby Naruto shot straight up out of his chair, eyebrows on the ceiling. “SHE’S A LADY YOU CAN’T ASK HER THAT IT’S RUUUUUUUDE!”

Honestly I didn’t care much, so between trying to shush the giggles out of the rest of the kids I told Tofu has just turned 23, but Baby Naruto was personally affronted and spent a few minutes sputtering his disbelief that Tofu could be so insensitive. My little knight in shining armor.

 


 

I don’t often teach my first graders at my smaller elementary school, so when I found their class on my schedule one week I couldn’t help but be a bit excited for their class. There are only three of them, so with two English teachers and a homeroom teacher the class feels more like a discussion group than an actual lesson.

When my English teacher (not my JTE…it’s complicated) and I entered the class, the three kids were lining up their desks in their proper places. We noticed that they had taped little signs to the front that said the names of different shops—a “toy shop,” a “vegetable shop,” and one that I couldn’t have read if I had been there for a year. My English teacher asked about the signs, to which Balloon-chan replied,

“Last class, we were studying words (in Japanese), so we made shops and we drew pictures of things to sell at our shops! I have a vegetable store so I have vegetables! Wait, I have pictures!”

She shuffled to the back of the classroom and returned with a stack of colorful illustrations. Tapping them on the desk to arrange them neatly, she pulled the first one off the top and laid it down for my English teacher and I to see.

“These are my vegetables! Look, a dog!”

“…Balloon-chan, a dog isn’t a vegetable…” My English teacher was trying desperately not to laugh as she looked at the picture, which was indeed a dog.

She wasn’t listening. “This one is a cat! This one is a bird!”

“Oh, that’s very cute—”

“This one is a turnip!”

“Okay, a turnip is a vegetable, that’s good—”

“I have a hamster!”

“I don’t think this is a vegetable store,” I whispered to my English teacher, who was conflicted between laughing and encouraging Balloon-chan’s creativity.

After the hamster, the remaining cards were of proper vegetables.

 


 

I had known for a few weeks that, on a Thursday afternoon in January, my middle schoolers were going to have a 百人一首 (hyaku-nin isshu) karuta competition. Karuta was something I learned through watching a Detective Conan movie, funnily enough; it is a traditional Japanese card game consisting of 100 poem cards. Each card, which represents a famous lyric poem by well-known old Japanese poets, has the second half of the poem written on it. That side is turned up and the cards are shuffled and arranged randomly between two or more players, who sit on the ground in seiza. A reader then reads the poem from the beginning (each poem has a set pitch and intonation, which makes it sound somewhat like an old Buddhist chant or, in Western terms, more like a Gregorian chant), and when they begin the second half of the poem anyone who finds the poem card may “take” it. “Taking” it includes, at the least competitive level, touching the card, but in professional tournaments or games this means swiping the card dramatically off the board with a slapping sound, often with enough force to actually hurt someone. For professional karuta players who have memorized all 100 poems and all of the set tones/intonations, the moment the reader says the first few syllables of the first part of the poem they know which card they’re looking for, and only can hope that they a) find it and b) take it before their opponent, but after the second half of the poem begins.

For about thirty middle schoolers, looking for the card usually started after the first syllables of the second half of the poem. What can I say—my town specializes in kagura, not karuta.

Having a vague understanding of the rules and an interest in watching what my kids were doing, I decided I’d go and take pictures as they played. When I got to the lunchroom, however, I was quickly ushered to a group in the corner.

“Baby Sasuke isn’t here today,” Pikachu-sensei told me. “You know to play, right?”

I gave a tentative yes, so they plopped me down in Baby Sasuke’s group with three of my girls—one seventh grader, one eighth grader, and one ninth grader.

“Miriam-sensei is going to play, too??” They were just as incredulous as I was, but I assured them they wouldn’t have much to worry about. I’d never played before, and they would be a lot faster than me at reading the cards, so I’d just be here to fill space and have fun.

Turns out that, when playing unprofessionally, blindly looking for whichever card starts with whichever syllable I heard first is about as good as playing while knowing Japanese. Of the 100 cards we went through 96 of them, and of those 96 I took 25—the second highest amount in my group. It didn’t make much difference considering the tournament points were only being counted for each grade (no other teachers were playing), but I had lots of fun doing it, and I was proud of holding my ground. It was also fun to see my girls, usually quiet in class, so competitive; there was much screaming and the occasional foul mouth when cards were taken by other players.

Maybe I’ll have to pick up karuta as a hobby!

(For anyone interested in seeing how karuta is practiced or just…looks from a better angle, I’d recommend the second half of this video, which shows actors for a karuta movie to preparing for their roles, or this video, which is of another student (but less formal) tournament.  For those interested in seeing the best of the best, looking up the “Karuta Meijin Match” or “Karuta Queen Match” will give you the annual karuta championships in men’s and women’s divisions, respectively.)

 


 

One day in December I had seen my ninth graders running in and outside at random times, sometimes just two of them staying out on the track field for a while, jumping up and down to keep warm, other times all eight rushing down to the center of the field, looking around briefly, and running back inside while rubbing their arms. It was freezing that day, and I was mystified as to why they kept subjecting themselves to the elements. I even briefly wondered if it was some sort of punishment for bad behavior, before remembering that a) I had good kids, and b) that kind of punishment would probably be illegal. But when I asked them at lunch what they had been doing they kept using a word I didn’t know, 観察 (kansatsu), and saying in Japanese that the sun was moving. For a while I thought they were talking about looking through telescopes as they kept miming a single-eye binocular, but that didn’t seem quite right as I hadn’t seen a telescope on the track. When I returned from lunch I looked up the word in the dictionary and found that it was “observation” which, when coupled with them talking about the sun moving, made a lot more sense. They must have had some sort of science lab or activity all morning that had them monitoring the movement of the sun, and it just happened to land on a day that was…unfortunately cold.

But what really tickled me is how desperately they were trying to explain what kansatsu was to me. Not knowing the word in English, they kept trying to explain it in different but ultimately unhelpful ways, and they were laughing and getting frustrated with how poor of a job they seemed to be doing.

At one point the science teacher came by and, seeing as it was him who set up the experiment, a few of the students set upon him asking, “What’s kansatsu in English?”

He looked a bit lost, then turned to another student in the same class and asked him the same thing, “Hey, what’s kansatsu in English?”

Everyone in the area let out a mix between a laugh and a groan of defeat. “You aren’t supposed to ask us, we’re asking you!” one of the girls insisted, and gave up. The science teacher just looked a bit mystified, and went back to whatever he had been doing.

 


 

Late December finds my seventh-graders writing Christmas cards to each other as a fun way to end the year. Using a handful of set phrases the textbook had given them and some creative uses of the English they knew they were having a great time, and after having the English grammar checked were even given stickers to use as decoration.

One of my students, having finished writing, brought his card up to be checked before he began decorating. He was close to getting it right, but something felt a bit off—I couldn’t immediately place it, but when I read over his card I got the impression that I had missed something.

Sure enough, I looked at it one more time, and…

“Oh, hold on; you need an ‘e’ here, not an ‘a.’ You aren’t planning on marrying Christmas, are you?”

“NO!” he shouted, looking vaguely horrified at the thought that spelling “merry” as “marry” could result in such a heavy consequence. His classmates started snickering.

“Oooooooh, you’re going to marry Christmas~! When’s the ceremony?”

From the front of the room I could see him frantically rubbing out the spelling, ears pink. Well, it was an honest mistake.

 


 

Daily warm-up questions in English class always include things like the date and the weather as well as asking students, “How are you?”. While in America most people say “good” or “fine” regardless of how they actually are, in class students are encouraged to use the emotions they know—happy, sad, sleepy, hungry, et cetera. On one particular day at my larger elementary school, the question was posed to one of my fifth-grade classes and the deafening response came back from one student—

“I’M TIRED!”

“Oh, really?” My English teacher looked unconvinced, as his answer had to have been loud enough to be heard across the street.

“I’M TIRED!” He said.

I started to ask how the other students were, but before I could start there was another yell:

“IS THAT A CHICKEN!?”

The same boy was looking at my pencil case, somewhat in awe. While it isn’t a chicken, it does have a red part above the face that could look like a rooster crest if you don’t see it clearly.

“No, it’s a fried shrimp,” I answered him, laughing. Then looking at the other students who were covering their ears, I asked, “Are you sure you’re tired?”

“YES!”

He continued to yell his answers for the rest of the class.

 


 

I’ve gotten to participate in a variety of weird and fun activities since coming to Japan as a teacher, partially because my teachers and kids are eager to see me interact with Japanese culture and also partially because, while I’m a teacher, I’m a weird in-between teacher that gets the best of both worlds by not having homework but also getting to talk with my middle schoolers as if we were all the same age (honestly, the oldest of them are only six or seven years younger than me, which somehow doesn’t feel like that big a difference to begin with). One such activity was brought to my attention one day at lunch, where I was told that during the afternoon break my kids would be competing to…pick up beans.

That didn’t make much sense to me, so my JTE explained. The competition would be to see how many dried soy beans (which are very round) each student could pick up with chopsticks in 30 seconds. After all, chopsticks are perfectly functional, useful tools, but like trying to eat yogurt with a fork there are some things they simply aren’t the best at. One such thing is picking up small, round, firm objects, and thus the bean-picker-upper competition was born as a way to measure just how good everyone is with chopsticks. Honestly, I’m not sure if this is an all-Japan thing or a just-my-school thing, but regardless it sounded kind of fun. My JTE encouraged me to join in to see how I compared to my kids, and I agreed even though I had the sneaking suspicion that I was going to do horribly. The students seemed excited about it, which was encouraging; at least if I did poorly, they’d be entertained.

“Ravioli,” my JTE motioned to him. “Explain how the bean competition works in English.”

Said Ravioli, completely unsure of how to explain the rules in English but always willing to try, finished the bite of food he was on, put down his chopsticks, and set to his challenge with enthusiasm.

“Okay,” he started, and immediately stopped. A few moments passed before he picked up his chopsticks and pointed at them. “CHOPSTICKS.” His confidence made his classmates laugh from across the table.

“Uh…take chopsticks,” he said, thinking hard, “beans…” My JTE had begun to chuckle.

“BEANS,” he continued. “My beans…?”

Ravioli’s classmate gave him a questioning look from across the table, as if to say, “Are you sure about that?” But he didn’t stop.

“My beans…pick…uh…oh!” He had finally found the verb he thought he wanted. “TOUCH! TOUCH MY BEANS!”

One of the girls across the table managed a look of horror before erupting in laughter, and at the same time one of the boys in Ravioli’s class started frantically saying “STOP, STOP!” while also looking as if he wanted to die of shame. It was a mess. Half of the students were laughing because the sentence sounded funny, the other half were laughing because they had some idea of what he was actually saying, and overall everyone was laughing because, despite the assurance with which Ravioli had made his proclamation, everyone knew that somehow or another that he had definitely not explained the rules of the bean competition.

For the curious, I ended up transferring 13 beans in 30 seconds which, while nowhere near the student record, wasn’t anything to sneeze at.

 


 

At the beginning of each English class, my seventh graders play bingo to help improve vocabulary. They first repeat all the words after me, and then must repeat as well as I call them during the game. In this particular round of bingo, one of the vocabulary words was “mountain,” and my JTE decided to quiz them on some of their nature words. Most of them went well, and as their confidence grew they got louder and louder:

“What’s 山 in English?”

“Mountain!”

“What’s 川 in English?”

“River!”

“What’s 木 in English?”

“Tree!!”

“What’s 花 in English?”

“Flower!!”

“What’s 海 in English?”

“SEA!”

“What’s 大きい海 in English?”

“BIG SEA!!”

The right answer was “ocean.” My JTE and I sputtered with giggles as they collectively got it wrong, but we couldn’t blame them for their mistake; Japanese only has one word that means both “sea” and “ocean,” so they did their best…and just translated things a little too literally.

 


 

My three first-graders at my smaller elementary school are always a joy to watch, because they’re at an age where they don’t quite understand the world yet. It’s hilarious watching them try to take instructions, or watching their homeroom teacher prank them in class, because half the time they just…don’t get it.

Case in point: at the beginning of every class, English included, Japanese kids must stand up, stand at attention (shoulders back, arms stiffly at the side, everything), and bow to the teacher before sitting back down. In middle school some English teachers will change this a little, since no one bows in Western cultures, but for elementary it’s the same so they don’t get confused.

When we started class with the first graders, their bows were pretty weak; just little 10-degree inclines that work if you’re greeting someone as you’re walking down the hallway but not if you’re addressing a teacher. My English teacher called them out on it, and asked them to do a proper deep bow to begin class.

What followed was the thunk of three heads hitting their desks, bows only having stopped when their head couldn’t go any further.

 


 

In preparation for their final English speaking presentation of the year, my eighth-graders have been writing about their favorite things—favorite anime, favorite video game, favorite movie, et cetera. As they’ve been writing I’ve been walking around the room fielding questions and fixing spelling mistakes, which also means I’ve gotten to spy on their short essays before they present them.

Every student has their own strengths and weaknesses; some of them can be left to their own devices and will write the whole thing, others need some nudging as they go or will need the occasional grammar assist. Koya is usually a student I don’t have to correct very often, or if I do it isn’t for anything that completely breaks the English language; as long as he doesn’t fall asleep he can get stuff done reasonably well. For this assignment, I had passed him early on and seen that he had finished the first sentence (of about six): “My favorite character is Yoshi.” A solid start, and it was nice that I knew who he was talking about as it meant I could help him better later if he couldn’t think of anything. But while he had the first sentence down early on, as I continued to walk around the class I realized that he hadn’t even started the second sentence after five minutes, ten minutes, fifteen minutes. I wondered where he was stuck, but with plenty of other things to check with the other kids, I gave him some space in case he was just trying really hard to remember something.

A little more than halfway into the class, I had finished up helping one student when I noticed that my JTE was helping Koya. They seemed to be having a discussion, and Koya had his head in his hands, looking bewildered. I wandered over to see what was going on, and when I neared his desk my JTE motioned me to come help.

“‘My favorite character is Yoshi,’” I read aloud. No issues there.

My JTE pointed to the space where the second sentence would go: “He’s having trouble because he can’t figure out if Yoshi is a boy or a girl.”

I looked at the worksheet blankly for a moment, and then realized—the next sentence had to start with a pronoun.

“Yoshi’s a boy, right?” I asked, trying to draw on my own knowledge. “Wouldn’t it be ‘he’?”

“But he lays eggs.”

Honestly, I’d never thought of that before.

My JTE laughed as my face went from puzzled to concerned. Koya sighed again, still staring at his worksheet—even though he knew what he wanted to say in English, he couldn’t get past the pronoun.

“I’m pretty sure Yoshi is a boy,” I said. “Maybe they’re like male seahorses? The Yoshi in Paper Mario is definitely a boy…”

Still, by the end of class we hadn’t effectively settled the issue, and the day ended with Koya only finishing one sentence in his essay. When I posed the question to my family chat, my dad did some digging and found out that Yoshis are asexual dinosaurs as they only need one Yoshi to make and hatch eggs.

Koya went with “it” for his essay pronouns.

 


 

My seventh graders, like most of my other kids, never leave me hanging when it comes to a good laugh. Seventh grade English in Japan is focused on a lot of vocabulary memorization, so with a bunch of new words rolling around in their heads they get them mixed up sometimes, or they just don’t quite remember the meaning, and it’s usually hilarious. Just like the previous “big sea” story, we were practicing Japanese-to-English vocab repetition one day, this time with verbs and the past tense. But before moving on to past tense, we reviewed the present-tense verbs to make sure everyone was on the same page.

“始まる!” My JTE said.

“Start!” Came the reply.

“手に入れる!”

“Get!”

“楽しむ!”

“Enjoy!”

“大好きです!”

Everyone hesitated except King Charles, who raised his voice dramatically and said, “I LOVE YOU!”

Love was the right verb, but of course “I love you” isn’t quite on the vocabulary list. Laughter swept over the class as my JTE told him “thank you,” trying to keep her own chuckles in check, and it was a few moments before the class settled down enough to continue.

 


 

During afternoon break and cleaning time, all of the kerosene heaters are turned off in my middle school (no central heating, remember) and many windows and doors are opened for air circulation. This can make it quite chilly for a while, which has students running around trying to find ways of keeping warm.

One day in particular I went up to my eighth-graders’ room to move some music onto their computer to find four of my boys sitting on the floor in a row, directly placed where the sunlight was streaming through the window into the room. All of them—Koya, Snowman, Hikaru, and Kaoru—were reading, so hunched and huddled over their books that they looked like cats curled up in a windowsill, legs crossed in awkward positions and shoes lined up neatly beside them.

It was so cute.

I laughed at them and told them how it looked, to which they responded, “It’s warmer over here,” and went back to their books.

 


 

Having my mom visit my classes was an interesting experience, but the one I was most anxious with was my sixth graders at my smaller elementary school. Those kids are some cute little buggers, but they’re also slightly insane, and I was worried that with my mom there they would get absolutely nothing done. Thankfully they were (mostly) cooperative for the class, but they still gave us some stuff to laugh at.

“Where am I from?” my mom asked. I told them where I was from when I introduced myself at the beginning of second semester, so theoretically they should remember.

“AMERICA!” Baby Naruto shouted helpfully, which was true but wasn’t what we were looking for.

“What state?” I raised an eyebrow. This was where it would get interesting, I was sure.

“Alabama,” one of my kids offered.

“NOOOO that’s where the previous ALT was from!” one of the girls corrected, looking mortified at the mistake.

“It starts with ‘I,’” said my JTE.

“Indiana!”

“Close!” my mom and I were impressed.

“INDIA!” Came a shout from the back of the room.

“THAT’S A COUNTRY!” Someone else yelled.

“EGYPT!” The three of us—my mom, my JTE, and myself were all laughing by this point.

“IGUANA!”

“THAT’S A LIZARD!” Baby Naruto was scandalized at the answer.

After more general chaos they eventually got “Illinois,” but my kids wouldn’t let their classmate live “iguana” down for the rest of the period.

 


 

During afternoon break one day I was called into the computer room, where all of my ninth graders were taking photos for their middle school memory book. They had been getting pictures of all of the teachers, and since I had some free time I’d just do it with the rest of the kids.

As we were waiting in line, I spotted a Japanese stinkbug—a kamemushi—on the floor, motionless, and pointed it out to one of my boys.

“Is it alive?” he asked, partially to himself, and squatted down next to it. I thought he was going to hit it, but instead he started thumping his hands down on the ground next to it, making a lot of noise and trying to see if it would react. Once Ravioli saw what he was doing he joined in the fun, turning the previous soundscape of camera clicks and instructions to “smile” into a jarring percussion piece. After about ten seconds, the stinkbug started to slowly walk forwards, not at all in a hurry.

“It’s alive,” the boys confirmed, stopping their barrage, and went back to waiting in line.

Throughout the whole thing, none of their classmates or teachers had even bothered to see what was going on. Must be pretty normal.

 


 

Speaking of stinkbugs, there was one in my sixth-grade class the other day. My JTE and I were teaching as normal when someone mentioned that they smelled a stinkbug (in Japan, they smell strongly of parsley). As the scent grew stronger and stronger, wafting over the class, students began to look around their desks for the bug. One by one they made faces of disgust as they started to smell it, covering their noses and mouths with their handkerchiefs, until even the last boy in the corner belatedly made a retching noise and declared, “IT STINKS.”

The whole class was put on hold because of how strongly it reeked in the room, and we all set about trying to find its source. I spotted it at last—near the front of the room, my JTE had stepped on a particularly large stinkbug, releasing all of its strongest fragrances.

“Sorry everybody,” she said, laughing, as they all groaned and made protests. A mischievous smile crept across my JTE’s face, and as they were whining she began to walk around the room with wide, high strides, trying to waft the smell from her shoe towards them.

“I’m. So. Sorryyyyy,” she punctuated each word with a step, obviously not sorry as the students started making louder complaints and stifling giggles. We ended up opening the windows and finishing class, but when the homeroom teacher came back in at the end of class, even he wrinkled his nose and said, “Ugh, why does it smell in here?”

We all just laughed.

 


 

Elementary graduation happens a bit after middle school graduation, so the week before Spring Break found me watching my sixth graders wear uniforms for the first time and receive little diplomas.  While middle school graduation is heartfelt and a bit sad, elementary graduation is just adorable; watching my kids wondering at which parts they have to stand and bow and turn and sit was hilarious, and with their too-big uniforms and the most serious faces I’ve ever seen on the lot of them, it was overall a good time.  But in between all the songs and the formalities and the speeches, my favorite part had to be from Baby Naruto: at the beginning of one of the speeches, the head or something or other from the educational who-knows-where asked the nine graduates,

“Your time has gone so fast, hasn’t it?  Do you remember that day, six years ago, when your parents first dropped you off at school?”

Most of them had the insight that an answer probably wasn’t necessary, but from my seat in the teacher’s section I could see genuine, honest Baby Naruto thinking…and shaking his head “no.”

 


 

When there is time for English fun and games—once a semester, if we’re lucky—I’ve been trying to teach my kids the beauty of Mad Libs, trying to exercise their vocabulary brains in a fun way. It’s tricky for them to come up with English words on the fly, but the stories that come out of it put a smile on everyone’s face.

My favorite Mad Lib of the last batch had in it the award-winning lines, “On our way to the easy park, we saw a strong tuna riding a bike. We also saw big, happy balloons tied to a cat.”

After reading this, I couldn’t get the image of a hugely muscular, misshapen tuna out of my mind, which resulted in the following drawing. I still smile looking at it.

RenderedImage
The cursed image of the Strong Tuna and the onlooking “happy balloons tied to a cat.”       03.19.19

When the Sakura are in Bloom

At the time I post this, it will be my birthday both in Japan and in America. The overlap is foreign, unfamiliar; it feels as if I must have two birthdays in order to have an overlap, as if part of me is in both America and in Japan. What it boils down to, rather, is where the people I love are—and in that sense, I’m lucky to have many birthdays, because I’m lucky to have friends and loved ones all over the world. But in Japan, my birthday coincides with the beginning of sakura season, one of the most famous and beloved times of year. Sakura, Japanese cherry blossoms, bloom in a big wave, slowly moving from the tropics of Okinawa in January to the chilly slopes of Hokkaido in May. This wave is predicted in weather reports and shared all across the news so that people can know when to expect full bloom, called mankai, and thus when the time is best for hanami—flower-viewing picnics.

When I was here in 2016, sakura season was late. It arrived in Kobe in the first few weeks of April instead of the middle or end of March, and unfortunately the strong winds and downpours of the rainy season limited mankai to only a day or two, after which the sakura petals were torn down in a flurry of storms. I was lucky to be able to see the sakura in Shukugawa Park before they were gone, but others weren’t so fortunate.

It is actually this impermanence of the sakura, the brevity with which they bloom, flourish, and are blown away in gusts of what looks like pink snowflakes, that makes them so beautiful in the eyes of Japanese culture. The idea of mono no aware, roughly translated as “a sensitivity towards all things,” is a deep-rooted aspect of Japanese society, and it expresses both a melancholy for the transience of everything in the world and an appreciation for such short-lived beauty while it lasts. I have come to find a lot of comfort in mono no aware during my time in Japan as it turns something sad into something beautiful, and sakura are the ultimate expression of such a bittersweet idea. While springtime displays of sakura are magnificent, attracting not only Japanese natives but tourists from all over the world, they serve as a reminder that even times of wonder, beauty, and happiness…“they too will pass.”

Sakura season is associated with another important event in Japan, moreso for me now that I am a teacher: graduation. The Japanese school year begins in April and ends in March, meaning graduation is marked in many places by the first signs of spring. That is the case even for Aso this year; while usually it’s a lot colder in the caldera than it is around the rest of the southern island, this year has been particularly mild. We’ve been seeing plum blossoms, which usually bud in early March, for several weeks now, and some of the braver sakura trees have already begun to bloom. Despite the chilly temperatures at night, the warmer temperatures during the day have been encouraging spring to come a little quicker this year. I only hope that the rest of the trees can hold out for another little while, until I have the time to have a proper hanami! Still, I can’t help but be glad they’re as early as they are, as it gives my graduating students a greener, more picturesque backdrop to the culmination of their middle school life.

In the States, graduating middle school isn’t that big a deal. Everyone finishes 8th grade and moves on to the 9th without much thought; high school may feel like the beginning of adult life, but at the end of the day it’s just a continuation of the schooling students had before.  That isn’t quite the case in Japan. I’ve mentioned this before, but in the Japanese school system, many students have “assigned” or “set” elementary and middle schools, much like in America. But whereas in America, we test into college and go our separate ways, Japan’s students must test into high school, and often classmates are separated into different schools when they’re fifteen. What’s more, in small schools like the one I teach at, there is only one class for each grade, which means that these kids that are graduating—all eight of them—have been in the same class every hour of every school day for the last nine years. Nine years of the eight of them, growing up together, and now on their last day of middle school they face high school more or less alone. Some of them will end up in the same place, of course, but after graduation no more than half of the class will go to the same school. Some of them are moving an hour away to go to their new school; others will make a daily two-hour round trip. Some will end up in the same class as their old classmates, others may go to the same school but never see each other because of the way they are split up. What’s more, many aspects of school life that they are used to—school cleaning, school lunch, not having proper grades in class, having less than 30 students in their school—will disappear overnight. There are some big changes in there.

Because the transition from middle school to high school is so drastic and because these kids will never have class again with just…well…them, middle school graduation is a whole event. It’s very important in Japan, and it involves ceremonies, farewell parties, special meals, and all sorts of speeches: a proper sendoff, if you will. Watching all of the preparations and rehearsals, excitement and sadness, has reminded me of mono no aware, and with it, the sakura.

The kids that are graduating today, on my birthday, are kids I have only known for six or seven months. If you take into account the length of time it took for us to look each other in the face and properly talk to one another, that time shortens to maybe five months, or four for some of my shy ones (what can I say; we’re all awkward). At the beginning, when no one knew what to say and in what language, I naively thought that maybe I wouldn’t feel as close to my students as other teachers abroad have said I would be. I wanted desperately to be their friend, but maybe, I thought, I’d just be That English Teacher that they had for a little while, whose name they don’t really remember. And honestly, that still may be the case for some of them. But what I do know is that to me, these kids aren’t just “the ninth graders I taught for six months,” and the fact that I nearly teared up at the unprompted sincerity with which one of my girls told me, “you’re the best English teacher,” leads me to hope I won’t be forgotten, either.

As my ninth graders move on to a different school, I find myself wishing they could stay a bit longer—if only I had known sooner that he liked the same comic book as me, or that he wanted to be a dancer. If only I could have helped more with her confidence speaking English, or gotten to know more about her interest in track and field. These are thoughts I’ve had as I taught their last class, had a last school lunch with them, or seen them walk down the aisle towards their waiting diplomas. It sounds like they’re my actual children, the way I word it, and I know that isn’t the case. But those feelings aren’t shared to be dramatic, or to make me seem like a better teacher than I am…they are genuinely the thoughts and wishes I carry for these students. I may not have more time with them now, but I want to be able to call every one of them in ten years and ask how they are, if they’re happy, and whether or not they achieved their goals. They have given me so much joy while I’ve been here, and seeing them move on to a bigger, wider, scarier, infinitely more exciting future only makes me want to cheer them on towards whatever aspirations they carry.

Here’s a secret: I don’t even care if those aspirations include never studying English again.

I really don’t.

Because even if they don’t go on to be fluent in English, I have seen so much talent in them, and so much character, and so much beauty. Not the “Maybe she was born with it, maybe it’s Maybelline” kind of beauty; we’re talking the “shining from the inside out” kind of beauty. Their funny, silly, serious, charismatic personalities, the deep friendship they have for one another, and the diligence with which they pursue their future—it has really blown me away. The little time I had with them hasn’t made them any less important to me or less dear to my heart, and it really does sting to think I won’t see them anymore.

Honestly, it would be easy to say this is mono no aware; “because our time was so short, that’s why it feels so cruelly interrupted,” or something like that. And yet I’m tempted to reject that idea, because while six months is a short time to spend with these kids, I think a year and six months wouldn’t make it easier to say goodbye. Just watching my eighth-grade class at the graduation rehearsal reminded me that, one year from now, they will be the ones leaving, too.

And that’s almost as hard as thinking about my kids that are leaving now.

No matter how long something beautiful lasts, its end will always be hard to bear. That hardship won’t be without any happiness or hope, but those reassurances only soften the blow. There will also be times in the future to look back on what has been lost and think about how good it was (true to form, the word “nostalgic” is used infinitely more often in Japan than I’ve ever heard in America), but I suppose the beauty of earthly impermanence is that sadness, too, is not forever. My kids will go on to high school as wonderful individuals, changing but never losing who they are at heart. I will continue to teach and to learn as I live in Japan. My students will put a smile on my face tomorrow just as certainly as they put a smile on my face yesterday. And next year, whether early or late, the sakura will bloom again.

To the eight of you who are graduating, no, who have now graduated—no matter how far you go in life or how far away you end up from Aso, I wish you everything for your future.

Two Idiots Abroad, Featuring All the Policemen in the World

As I mentioned in my previous post (which I recommend you read for context, if you haven’t already), the holiday season can be rough for those of us who decided it was a good idea to live on the opposite side of the planet to everyone we know and hold dear. My Christmas this year, while not the best on record, reminded me of how thankful I am for my family and friends, and for all of the ways we can communicate through the distance. Still, the thought of spending New Years in Japan as well, with no plans or other friends to visit, was something I dreaded. One of the two was fine, but both…the solitude felt a bit crushing, and with many national holidays around New Years I hated thinking about all the hours I would spend sitting alone in my apartment during a time that was usually so happy. I made up my mind that, no matter how last-minute, I had to do something for New Years, and what ended up working out was better than I had imagined.

Two years after our first trip together, the same friend I went to Tokyo with (who is now also a teacher in Japan) agreed to come with me to Seoul, where we were for the last days of 2018 and the first few of 2019. We had already spent one New Years in a big city, we figured, and she was eager to visit South Korea for the first time, so why not hop over for a visit? What’s more, in doing research for my English board I heard that Seoul had a lot of beautiful illuminations like Japan, so I was looking forward to seeing more light displays. About two weeks before we planned to leave we booked our flights, secured an Airbnb, and marked our calendars: we were going for round two of our Tokyo trip—just this time in a place where we couldn’t effectively talk to anyone.

I flew out of Japan on the afternoon of the 28th, arriving at Incheon Airport at about half past four and meeting my friend not long after. We exchanged money, rented a WiFi egg, and set off towards the city in the airport train. The first thing we noticed upon our arrival was that it was cold, and we weren’t talking “kind of chilly”; a cold front had swept through East Asia that day, leaving South Korea bitterly frozen. That first night the reported temperature was -2 degrees Fahrenheit, which felt much colder to our feet and hands. Just walking around Myeongdong to pick up some street food—the only thing we attempted that first evening—left us shivering and desperately blowing warm air on our fingers. The next day, we decided, we would wear all of our HeatTech undergarments.

Our first full day, the 29th, we woke up passably early (for vacation) and set off for Gangnam (which, for those who may be wondering, is the same Gangnam that PSY references in “Gangnam Style”). Gangnam is a wealthy, upscale area of the city and is full of name brand shops like Burberry, Gucci, and Bentley, hence why the main message of PSY’s song is to say that he has “Gangnam style”—he basically means to say “hey ladies, I’m available and rich,” wrapped in a package that looks like a parody. Gangnam is expensive but has a lot of interesting brands in its malls and on its streets, and overall has a funky, bustling energy to it. The only downside is that, compared to a lot of other tourist destinations in Seoul, it’s on the opposite side of the Han River, and thus takes a while to get to. Our first stop in Gangnam and personal favorite of mine was Common Ground, a small shopping center that looks like it’s made up of giant shipping crates. Common Ground is filled with boutiques and one-off shops, many of which carry streetwear brands or less common fashion styles. It also boasts an outdoor walkway above the stores, which leads to 10-15 different restaurants and cafes. While I’ve heard that Common Ground is slowly becoming more mainstream (and thus indie brands are migrating towards other newer developments), I still find a lot of stuff there that you don’t see in many other stores. And that’s saying something, because South Korea is slightly notorious for having only one fashion style that everyone wears.

After Common Ground we hit up COEX Mall, another popular shopping spot in Gangnam. The place is absolutely massive, housing not only hundreds of shops but also the beautiful Starfield Library, one of the biggest, quirkiest aquariums in the country, and a movie theatre. COEX radiates a kind of young, modern aura; while it can be pricey, many of the shops boast mature but trendy clothes, cafés and juice bars tend towards clean, vintage, and organic, and nighttime welcomes artist and creator booths to break up the long, wide hallways and to give a “hip craft market” feel to the evening hours. There is never a lack of people in COEX, both tourists and Koreans.

Right next to COEX, close enough that they look like the same building, is SM Town, a multi-story “mall” dedicated to a music company of the same name. SM is considered one of the “big three” Korean pop music (K-Pop) labels, with many of their main groups having millions of fans not only in Korea but around the world.  SM Town, then, is a K-Pop fan’s dream, carrying not only tons of merchandise but also offering a museum of their artists, performance outfits and trophies on display, signed records, a small theatre that shows SM-related films, a café with themed desserts, and even some kind of holographic idol experience where you can “take a picture” with your favorite singer. When we went, the café was filled to bursting with fans, all of whom had brought binders of idol photo-cards, which they were trading amongst each other.

Finishing up the COEX area in the mid-afternoon, my friend and I took the train to Gangnam Station, where we settled into a café for some tea. Our plan was to meet my friend who lives in Korea—the one I visited in October—that evening and go to a concert for the Korean rock band The Rose, even though I wasn’t very familiar with their music. Unfortunately, we figured out about 45 minutes before the concert started that the hall we were headed to, K-Art Hall, was actually the wrong K-Art Hall; there are two concert halls of the same name in Seoul, and they are nowhere near each other. With our possibility of arriving even close to on time destroyed and the venue unreachable by phone to determine if we would even be let in if we arrived late, we admitted defeat and settled for going to the Express Bus Terminal Shopping Center, where we wallowed away our disappointment by looking through purse shops and buying fashion masks (which, while looking cute, have also made me feel just a smidge safer in Influenza-A-ridden Japan).

The next day we spent most of the day shopping in Myeongdong, then in the evening headed to Namsan Tower. Namsan Tower, also called Seoul Tower, is perched on a hill in the middle of…well…Seoul, where an old fortress used to be. From the observation deck you can see the whole city, 360 degrees, just like from almost anywhere in the city you can see the tower in the distance. To get up to the tower you must either take a cable car or take a hike, of which we did the former, and if you happen to go on the night before New Year’s Eve (like we did), you’ll also have to take a number and wait in line to go up to the observation deck. Still, the night view is worth it: to see one of the biggest cities in the world from above, ocean of lights split down the center by the dark expanse of the Han River, is something you can’t easily forget. We had waited so long to see the top that by the time we were ready to leave the park was closing, and with an unreasonably long line preventing us from getting on the cable car, we ate the price of our return ticket and just took the old fortress stairs down the mountain. Easier down than up, for sure, but as there were no architectural rules back in the day we still had a rough time with the uneven steps.

My friend and I bundled up like no other on the thirty-first, knowing that we wouldn’t be coming home before standing in the cold for the countdown. It wasn’t as cold that day as the days prior but was still beyond freezing, so we decided to take it easy. We started by going to Seoul Forest, a huge park in the middle of the city I had long wanted to visit, and were slightly disappointed to find that it didn’t have many…alive plants during the winter. It was mostly cold and brown, with only the sights of a stray cat, a rabbit hutch and a deer enclosure to keep us happy. (Usually you’re allowed to feed the deer, but we were told by a sign on the feed dispenser that that feature had been suspended “for weight control”). Thoroughly cold and also a bit bummed by the dead plants, we opted to stay inside for the rest of the afternoon. Heading back to COEX we kept our Tokyo tradition of going to an aquarium on New Year’s Eve; two years ago we had been to Sumida Aquarium before the nighttime festivities, and this time we visited the huge aquarium within the mall. It was both a lot warmer and more colorful than the outdoors, with a variety of creative displays that I never would have expected—fish could be found swimming in telephone booth tanks and picture frames, old game consoles and vending machines. One of the coolest tanks was shaped like a harp and housed a few teeny-tiny fish. As they swam through the tank, motion sensors located where the harp strings would be picked up their movement and played a sound as if the string had been plucked. Who even thinks of this stuff?

After having our fill with the fishes we ate an early dinner of Korean barbecue, then laid out our plans for the evening. We had previously looked at popular New Years events in Seoul and had decided to head to Bosingak Pavilion, which where is Korea’s televised New Year’s celebration takes place (like Times Square in New York). This pavilion holds a huge bell which, upon the arrival of the New Year, is rung 33 times by 16 dignitaries, including the mayor of Seoul. Afterwards, there was also supposed to be a music concert. We didn’t know what to expect otherwise, but figured it couldn’t hurt to find out.

Knowing that the subway would be a zoo after midnight we decided to walk to Bosingak so we didn’t get lost on the way back, and ended up glad of it—on the way to the pavilion we stumbled upon the Cheonggyecheon Stream, a popular summertime spot for picnics or small concerts but a spectacle of lights during the holidays. Wandering along the banks until we found our way down to the riverside walkway we saw many street vendors selling food and light toys for later in the evening, and once next to the river we were greeted by a beautiful floating city of houses, suspended presents, trumpeting angels, and a huge Christmas tree, all in lights. Behind these displays was a huge rainbow-lit structure that held what appeared to be a holiday rave inside, with a DJ in the front shredding disks and a bouncing, dancing crowd smothered in dry ice filling the rest of it. We arrived just before the last song ended, and thus weren’t much part of the festivities, but it looked fun from far away!

After we were done at the river we continued to the pavilion area, where we found no one was allowed to gather yet (it was still about 10:30, maybe a little later). Where Bosingak is positioned, there is a diamond-shaped area in front of it that backs into a large four-way intersection, and as the intersection was still open there wasn’t much of place to hang out, anyway. Still, the amount of people milling about and waiting made the space crowded, which could have been unsafe with the main streets still shuffling with cars.

That’s where the police come in.

From Myeongdong all the way to Bosingak, as my friend and I had walked along we had seen hundreds of police cruisers, buses, and squadrons out and about. We were blown away by the sheer number of officers that had been mobilized; it seemed at times that there were more policemen and policewomen in the area than civilians! Some were stationed all alone on corners or by stations, others were walking around in pairs or groups, still others were relaxing in the buses, reading, eating cup ramyeon, or sleeping, preparing for the work they had for the night. This doesn’t mean the atmosphere was tense or riotous in the city; not by any means. When in Seoul I’ve seen policemen walking around on patrol often, quite relaxed and friendly, and most of the civilians were paying them little mind…unless they had to cross the street.

See, the policemen hadn’t only been brought out to make sure the New Years crowd didn’t turn violent; they were also there to…well…serve and protect in other ways. As I said, the streets around Bosingak were fully operational until about 11 pm, which could have resulted in a lot of vehicle-pedestrian traffic accidents. To ensure no one was injured, the police (carrying their squad numbers on little flags, like professional tourist guides) had formed a human barrier along all four curbs of the intersection and were escorting groups of civilians across the street when the lights were green. The process looked a little something like this: when the walk light was on, the part of the human police perimeter by the crosswalk would break at the middle and open like double doors, with the policemen on both sides of the street moving to make a barrier on either side of the crosswalk. For the duration of the light they would remain open, every once in a while encouraging people to keep moving if they stopped, and when the walk light was about to turn red they would break the crosswalk barrier, narrowing civilian access to the walkway until the police line was behind the last person crossing. As the last people safely made it to the other side of the road, the police barrier would shrink to prevent people from entering the street, once again setting itself up on the curb until the light turned again. This, as you can imagine, required a massive amount of manpower and probably a million and one practice drills, but the end result paid off, as did the rest of the police efforts that night.

Human police barriers were also used once the people began gathering at Bosingak; in this picture you can clearly see the veins of neon yellow running through the crowd. These barriers helped make sure that no one group was pushing too far forward (which might have injured people closer to the front) or that no one was becoming rowdy; additionally it helped make sure that the dignitaries at the pavilion were well-protected. My friend and I were just behind one of said police lines, at one point having them directly in front of us. They were faced away from the pavilion and towards the crowd, making sure nothing was wrong, and never gave ground even when we experienced some pushing from the back. Honestly, I think it’s because of this that there was so little pushing in general. As mentioned before, two years ago I spent New Year’s Eve on the Shibuya Scramble in Tokyo, and while it was fun I thought I actually might die in the first few minutes after the countdown. The whole intersection had a police perimeter around it, not through it, so once people wanted to leave there was nothing to stop them from shoving their way out, creating a cramped, chaotic stampede that had me worried if I lost my footing I would be trampled. In contrast, the police perimeter at Bosingak was more of a police interstate, crisscrossing the crowd to localize disruptions.

In another (well-rehearsed) act of genius, these police lines helped to evacuate the area without a stampede. This was accomplished in a way I would imagine is similar to but 100% less deadly than a pincer attack in Ye Olde Battle Simulation Games. The connected police lines encouraged people to leave in an orderly fashion by gradually “folding” at their middle—what was once a straight line of people bent into more of a U-shape, slowly becoming narrower and progressively moving away from the pavilion. This way, as people became disinterested and began to leave, the people in the back had space to exit, and those lingering in the front were gently forced to move farther and farther back as the lines moved. The process felt so organic that at first my friend and I didn’t even realize what was happening; we only really recognized the pattern after we had already moved to watch a different performance. Being from America, where the current socio-political environment is very polarized on the actions of the police, it was incredible to see the system work so seamlessly and so calmly. Without stepping on any political toes where the American homefront is concerned, let me just say this: Korean police are amazing, and it’s nice to see civilians, both native and foreign, also working with them. Everyone was calm and polite, and while the police were firm when mobilized and on a mission there seemed to be no conflict with them or with others.

That isn’t to say that the event itself had no…disruptions, though I hate to call them that. Perhaps “displays” would be a better description. When I think of public New Year’s celebrations, I think of families, communities, towns, cities, and countries coming together to look towards the future, having fun and remembering the year. This is true of the New York celebrations I’ve seen, as well as the Shibuya event. At Bosingak, the message seemed more national, or even a bit political. At one point, a short film was shown with old pictures that looked vaguely related to Korean independence or previous Korean politics, though with zero knowledge of what was being said or shown I can’t say for sure what the film was supposed to depict. The mayor’s speech as well had a more serious tone than I expected, though again I have no idea what he said. This isn’t to say it’s wrong for people to celebrate nationalism at New Year’s, but it isn’t what I expected. Further supporting the theory that the theme was centered around politics were the crowd displays that I mentioned—past a police wall to my right, a few individuals with big signs hoisted on poles made their way through the masses as the event went on, slowly migrating towards the front so their message might be picked up by the TV cameras or seen by the dignitaries. While the messages were mostly in Korean, there were a few English phrases on them talking about the current president of Korea, perhaps indicating political disagreement with the speeches being made. Despite this apparent discrepancy between the displays and the dignitaries, I hesitate to call these people or their message a disruption, as they protested very respectfully. Their signs were on poles (for better visibility), so they didn’t displace anyone in the crowd and were tall enough to not block anyone’s view. In addition, there was no shouting, violence, or pushing; these people merely stood in the crowd with their messages and, when the speeches were over, turned around and slipped away. While it struck me as an unusual sight for New Year’s, it was far from being rude or distracting.

While my friend and I stuck around after the countdown and the bell-ringing to see part of the Bosingak music concert, it wasn’t too long before we lost interest. We were more fascinated with how cool the police force was than a show we could hear but barely see (the stage and both LED screens weren’t well-placed with where we were standing), so we eventually gave up watching…and ended up seeing a much cooler performance instead. Moving with and through the crowd, having started right after the clock had struck midnight, was a group of about 20-30 young musicians, dancing and playing Korean drums in traditional clothes and hats. A ring of them made their own barrier, like a hole punch in the crowd, so that they would have room to perform. Honestly, this performance was probably the best thing of the whole night, though they weren’t part of the official ceremony in any way. The energy and love for their traditional music in their concert was tangible; they were smiling and laughing as they played, sometimes encouraging people from the crowd to join them or run through their dance lines. Stationed only behind the ring of drummers on the outside, my friend and I watched them until they finished a section of their performance and began to move towards another area in the crowd. It was at this point that we turned around briefly to check the Bosingak concert and realized that the police line was almost right behind us, even though we had moved away from it when we left to watch the drummers. The line was moving people out now that the drum performance was over and we still couldn’t see the Bosingak concert well, so we headed for the intersection and away from the pavilion, ready to call it a night.

As we walked back we weren’t escorted by the police, but there were still so many of them that it felt that way. As police lines led bubbles of people out of the crowd they broke their perimeter and regrouped in squadrons. While at the beginning of the evening we had seen squad leaders giving little speeches before everyone put their hands in for a good old team cheer, now we saw them standing with their flags, waiting for stray members to find them and jog back before heading to new stations as a group. Once we got past the closed roads we saw a lot more squadron cars, too, and police pairs patrolling nearby or sitting inside. The police highlight of the evening was with one such pair: as we were crossing the street into the Myeongdong shopping district, I spotted two policemen very politely fighting over who would carry the traffic cones to the car.

If that isn’t just the nicest thing.

Myeongdong looked a little worse for wear after the New Year, with assorted trash and streamers littering the streets like I’ve never seen, but even as we passed by at 1 am there were already public service workers there beginning to clean up. When we returned to Myeongdong later that morning, the streets were spotless.

January first was a pretty lazy day. We didn’t wake up very early, and spent a leisurely midday in what is now one of my favorite cafés in Seoul. Afterwards we headed to Hongdae, a popular shopping and clubbing spot known for its street performers, though being the middle of the day in the middle of winter we saw exactly zero street performers. When I was in Korea this past summer I saw a number of singers, rappers, and dancers in Hongdae—people often come to perform in hopes of being seen and scouted by K-pop agencies, or just for fun. Since there was little to see outside this time of year, my friend and I headed for the brand new Harry Potter café in the area. While it isn’t explicitly Harry Potter (the food isn’t themed, and there are few things in the building that directly refer to the books or films), it’s also unmistakably Harry Potter: wanted posters on the walls talk about monsters and wizards, walls are decorated with wand shelves and candlesticks, Hogwarts music accompanies the whole building, and the WiFi password is a depressing homage to Snape’s unrequited love. The eating areas are modeled after British pubs, The Great Hall, and even a Hogwarts dormitory, with a dungeon-y basement bar open until the wee hours of the morning. The café exterior was also modified—there is a façade over the whole building that makes it look like European architecture, with a heavy metal sign hanging from the side: King’s Cross Café, 9 ¾. If that weren’t enough, guests are encouraged to pose with their school trolley on one side of the building…as the cart passes through the wall, that is.

While we had to wait maybe 30 minutes to an hour to get in, we enjoyed poking around the café and drinking yet more coffee and tea. Those still weren’t our last cups though: after leaving King’s Cross, we met up with a few friends at another café, where we spent most of the evening.

The next morning, my friend flew back to Japan. Flights from her airport were cheapest that day while mine were cheapest the following day, so we said our farewells at the Airbnb. I chose to spend my extra day at Lotte World, an indoor-outdoor theme park in the center of the city. I had no idea what to expect—an indoor theme park? How was that even possible?—but wasn’t disappointed: the park has an unbelievable amount of rides for how big it is, and while it’s kind of a Disney ripoff I had a great time there. The inside part of Lotte World is accessible through a huge Lotte Mall near Gangnam, a mall which also is connected to the base of Lotte Tower. You enter on the first basement floor and afterwards have a lot of up to explore; every floor from B1 to F4 has rides, restaurants, and shops to find, and on F2 there is also bridge access to the outside part of the park: a manmade island complete with a castle as well as its own array of gyro drops, spins, flying chair rides, and roller coasters. (In my opinion, the most fun rollercoaster is out on this island; it’s called Atlantis.) Back inside, floor B2, while not part of the park, has a huge ice skating rink, and all subsequent floors (B1-B4) have an oblong cutout straight through the center, so that no matter what floor you’re on you can see all the floors below you with the rink at the very bottom. Floating above it at the F1 level is another Lotte World Castle, suspended by two thin bridges (that customers can’t enter). Surrounding the castle on F1, then, is what looks like a mini Epcot, with a variety of around-the-world areas to explore. A metro car ride snakes its way around this area, touring the sights (even going outside in summer), and high above, suspended from the domed ceiling, hot air balloon carts give a bird’s-eye-view of the whole park.

As it was still the New Year holidays when I went, the park was depressingly crowded, and unfortunately it was also unbearably cold. It was kind of a bummer standing by myself in line, listening to everyone chatting with their friends, and with the Atlantis line taking the longest at an hour and a half, my hands and feet were painfully frozen by the time I got to the front. My other waits were a bit shorter (the other long line for the well-known “French Revolution” coaster that spans all four main floors of the indoor park was only 40 minutes), but were also entirely inside…which made the waits feel shorter as well. Late into the evening, I had just ridden The Conquistador when I noticed park members putting up blockades around the center ring area of the first floor, and people starting to sit behind them. I figured there was a parade coming, so I joined the crowd and sat down by one, getting a front-row seat for whatever was to come. Sure enough, more and more people gathered behind the blockades until at 8 pm sharp the start of a parade was announced, and the whole park grew quiet. Rides were shut off, lights dimmed, and after a quick bout of storytelling, floats, dancers, and other performers, all lit with neon displays and twinkling with countless lights, emerged from some hidden backstage area to tour around the castle and ice rink. Flying drone-lanterns in rainbow colors formed shapes above the empty space in the floor, puppeteers with butterflies and jellyfish swooped over the crowd, performers in life-size giraffe costumes bent down their necks to nip at waiting hands, and motorized carriages filled the whole floor before the procession began to filed off. The show was definitely made for kids…but I still had fun watching it. After the parade, the whole park began to clear out despite closing an hour and a half later. I booked it to the fourth floor to ride one last ride (that normally had a ridiculously long line) before leaving, and grabbed a mozzarella hamburger to eat on my way out of the mall. I needed to get home anyway: I had to leave in the morning, and while my flight wasn’t too early, getting to the airport would take a while.

Despite setting several alarms, I woke up the next morning after my flight had already left.

…Well, crap.

I panicked for a solid ten minutes, hardly able to believe my fate; it felt like missing a flight was something that couldn’t physically happen. As if missing a flight was only a thing in movies. I called my mom (who wouldn’t), who of course couldn’t do much more than tell me to calm down and find another flight. Unfortunately my airport in Japan is quite small, and the only flight I could get was…the next day. No Airbnb, no plans, and twenty-four hours to wait.

Unsure of where I would crash for the night I gave up on trying to sightsee with my extra time and headed straight to Incheon Airport. Honestly, if you’re going to get stuck at any airport I would recommend Incheon; even outside of the security checkpoint they have restaurants, convenience stores, two gardens, a movie theatre, and a capsule hotel. I definitely planned to take advantage of the latter, as it was my only hope of not spending the night on a bench in the basement of the airport. The Incheon capsule hotel, called Darakhyu, isn’t what most people think of when they think of a capsule hotel. Instead of just a crawlspace bed inside of a wall, Darakhyu offers single and double rooms both with and without bathrooms (the ones without bathrooms have access to communal bathrooms and showers at the end of the hall), and each has a small desk and walk space. There is one Darakhyu in each of the two terminals, both in out-of-the-way corners of the airport, and upon finding the one in Terminal One I was very impressed with how nice it looked. Rooms sat like little connected crates, hallway ceilings open to the rest of the airport but not easy to look into, with a clean, white plaster and wood finish to everything and the serene image of a forest printed on the outside. The rooms can be rented for the night or for an hourly rate during the day, providing a place to freshen up and sleep no matter when you arrive at the airport. Unfortunately for me the Terminal One hotel was full, but the Terminal Two Darakhyu had a double no-bathroom room that I snatched up—I didn’t care if it was for two people, I just wanted a place to sleep.

The room itself was clean and cozy; there were no frills, bells or whistles, but it was a decently sized space for a capsule hotel, the bathrooms were clean and bright, and I didn’t hear any noise from my room the whole time I was there. Best yet, I woke up with plenty of time to spare, and it only took ten minutes to get from the capsule hotel to my check-in desk.

I was not missing my flight again, gosh darn it.

I didn’t, thankfully, and even had time to get a pear-and-rosemary Jamba Juice before boarding; my last taste of Korea until my mom visited just a few weeks ago, which granted wasn’t at all a long wait to go back. Sometimes it feels like forever, though, if only because Myeongdong fried-ddeok-and-mozzarella is to die for, and I currently live in a country that does not provide me with enough cheese options.

While this trip to Korea was a bit stressful near its end, I’m so grateful I had a friend crazy enough to jump on it as last minute as I did, and that we got to reconnect! We work the same job with the same age groups, but our work couldn’t be more different, and it was great to unload on each other then forget all of it and have a great time abroad for the holidays. It makes for way better stories than staying in my apartment for a week, that’s for sure. What’s more, traveling to Korea with minimal cost and time is a luxury I won’t have forever! I was glad to take advantage of that opportunity this year, and I’m thankful for the boredom and loneliness it saved me from. It still didn’t beat being home for the holidays (can anything?), so next year I’m definitely saving up for a ticket home, but for what it was, I couldn’t have asked for better.

I Was Home for Christmas (But Only in My Dreams)

An extraordinarily belated Merry Christmas to all of you, and a Happy New Year! The holiday season having come and gone I’m sure a lot of you have had family and friends on your minds in the past few months, maybe even having met up to exchange presents or ring in the New Year together. It’s much the same for us ex-pats; we probably think of home most often during the festive times of year, maybe even more than we do when we are physically at home. The aftermath of the season also brings out a common workplace inquiry: “Did you go home for Winter Break?”

My answer, as most of you can guess from the title, is “No, I didn’t.” When I studied abroad I also didn’t go home for the holidays, though my reasoning then was quite different than it was this year. But when you’re away for Christmas you do a lot of thinking about Christmas, and the long and short of it is basically this:

Being abroad for the holidays can be pretty lonely sometimes.

I say sometimes because there are certainly caveats, and I don’t want to come at this topic as if it is all doom and gloom; however, I also don’t want to sugarcoat what for myself (and possibly others) can be one of the less positive realities of living in a foreign country.

Before looking at more modern circumstances, I’d like to review my first holiday season in Japan, which was two years ago now. During study abroad, I was quite reluctant to go home for Christmas. I was resolved against it, in fact, for a number of reasons: first, Winter Break was one of the few opportunities I had to really travel, as there weren’t many breaks in our academic schedule. Second, I had decided to study abroad to force myself out of my comfort zone and away from home, and wanted to see the whole term through without going back. Third, I had a very definitive return date to the US; I knew exactly when I would be going home, and how much time I had left in Japan.

In addition to these reasons against leaving, I had a few pretty good reasons to stay—first, I had many friends through study abroad who were also staying, which meant that there was the possibility for us to hang out and travel. Second, I had a wonderful host mother and host sister who helped me celebrate by making as close to an American Christmas dinner as you can in Japan where there aren’t the ingredients to make an American Christmas dinner. And third, thanks to the scholarship my program offered, I had the monetary means to explore the country with the time I had off.

With all of this, I didn’t think it such a bad idea to stay in Japan for the holidays. Actually, I thought it was a great idea, and it was. I had a lovely Christmas, Skyping my family and having a big dinner with people who were dear to me, and while it didn’t feel like Christmas it certainly didn’t feel very lonely. What’s more, the day after Christmas a friend and I packed our bags and took the train up to Tokyo, spending New Years in the city. That trip was one of the happiest I had in Japan (though admittedly, I was privileged to have a lot of awesome trips), and when I returned to school I felt like I had really enjoyed the holidays, even if it wasn’t the same as being with my family.

But this year was a bit different. Many of my fellow teachers had either gone home for Christmas or were traveling to see friends, so there weren’t many foreigners around to foster holiday cheer. Holiday cheer certainly doesn’t foster itself in Japan, at least not in a way that feels like home. Christmas carols play in stores and the occasional decoration can be spotted around town, but the “Spirit of Christmas” that seems to sparkle in the icicle lights on a neighbor’s porch or that is felt in the warmth of a fireplace isn’t really present (pun unintended but appreciated) in Japan. It isn’t that Christmas is totally absent, but it definitely doesn’t feel the same; here, Christmas is more of a couple’s holiday, and if families do give gifts then it’s only parents to young children. Family activities are reserved for New Years in Japan. The most festive thing about Christmas in Japan are the stunning “illuminations,” which are usually only found in big cities and which are, in my opinion, the closest Japan gets to Christmas magic. During study abroad I visited the Kobe Luminarie, and this year I had the chance to see the Hakata Light Festival and International Christmas Market in Fukuoka. I also got to see illumination in one more place…but we’ll talk about that in my next post.

Back on topic, this year’s Christmas was a bit less festive than last time I was in Japan. In addition to many of my friends not being around and not having a host family to make dinner with, my rural location made Christmas decorations and celebrations scarce, and since I’m no longer a student I was expected to work on Christmas Day (I ended up taking a vacation day). To make things more difficult, my choice to not return home meant that I didn’t know when I would be home next—unlike study abroad, which had a set expiration date, the JET Program is from 1-5 years based on your performance and your choice to stay, and having waffled back and forth for months about whether or not to stay a second year it was difficult to make that decision to not come home for a bit. It felt, in some ways, that not going home for Christmas meant that I wouldn’t be home for a very, very long time.

That’s not a great feeling to take into the season. So then why in the world did I stay in Japan?

The reason is multifaceted. One big reason is that, considering I had been contemplating staying for a second year, I was terrified going home would make me really, really homesick. A lot of ALTs, especially those who have been struggling with their job or their sociocultural connections in Japan, find it really difficult to return after the holidays are over. The decision to recontract is always due not long after that return, which means that a lot of people are heavily influenced by that homesickness as to whether they want to stay or leave. Not that homesickness is an unreasonable cause to go home but that feeling, along with the winter blues, is guilty of convincing many an ALT that they are dissatisfied in Japan, and when spring comes they end up regretting their decision because they weren’t actually as badly off as they thought. Another part of my decision was concerning vacation days, which if I were staying for two years I could save for a larger trip later, or if I were going home after one year I could use during summer vacation to travel near the end of my contract. And a third contributing factor was that, while I didn’t know when I would be home again, I did know when I would see some of my family again—my mom, having some extra vacation days to use, left Japan a few weeks ago after visiting me for three weeks. (While that doesn’t excuse my entire absence, it’s one reason why this post has been late!)

With those three things on my mind (and also a baby Japanese bank account to look after), I chose not to come back to America for Christmas. And while it certainly wasn’t my ideal Christmas, I also can’t say that it was all too bad.

One of the saving graces of the season was the shortest, least convenient (for both parties) hangout in the entire world, which happened just before Christmas. A good friend of mine from study abroad, who currently lives in America, was traveling in Japan during her Winter Break, and in desperation to see one another while we were in the same hemisphere we travelled to one of our favorite places in Japan, Fukuoka City.

Our time together was laughably brief: the time from when we met at the train station to when we said goodbye at the airport was only about 27 hours. But that 27 hours was more than worth it; after all, a good friend is someone you can pick up a conversation with just as easily as if you saw each other yesterday, and I think that all we did while together was talk. For me, just as when I had visited my friend in Korea, it was a blessing to feel so at home in the midst of the JET Program which, while having countless advantages, is a Trial by Fire, Foreign Language Edition. She and I visited many of our old haunts (which were significantly colder than we had left them in the early summer of 2017), ate at many of our tried-and-true favorite restaurants, and talked over all of the things that are too difficult to say in just a text message. It was the feeling of home and familiarity that felt so absent in Aso Caldera, and I was lucky to have that to hang onto for the next few days into Christmas.

I also was lucky enough to get the 24th off, not for Christmas but for the observation of Emperor Akihito’s birthday, which meant that I was able to Skype family on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day only by taking the one vacation day. This helped brighten the season, albeit from far, far away. While not as easy as my Christmas two years ago, then, this Christmas wasn’t all bad. I still had the opportunity to see family and friends, whether in person or through the magic of modern technology…and I’m still blessed with the monetary ability to travel.

…Which brings us right up to my next story! Turns out that while I didn’t go home, I also didn’t stay in Japan for my whole break. But that’s a bit off-topic for this post, so I’m saving it for the next one, which should be up relatively soon from the time this is going up. After all, I can’t spoil everything in just one go! This post may have been a little somber, long, and long-overdue, but the next one won’t be. I hope you look forward to it, and to the rest of my backlogged adventures!